Fiordland Wilderness (Mis) Adventures

Hi All,

Since I last wrote, I've traveled from Queenstown to Te Anau, in Fiordland
National Park and part of the Te Wahipounamou (Place of Greenstone) UNESCO
World Heritage Site. I promptly set off on an incredible, humbling
experience.

I spent three days in a sea kayak on the remote Doubtful Sound. To get
there, we had to drive for half an hour, take an hour long speedboat ride
across Lake Manipouri, then drive for another 40 minutes over the Wilmot
Pass to Deep Cove on Doubtful Sound. Launched and loaded the double kayaks.
I paddled with Mark, a British chap, while we had a team of Danish goofy
Physicists, a couple of young American girls, a Japanese couple, and our
Kiwi guide, Adrian. Paddling the first day under calm conditions we did 25
kms and even got the sails up to catch a bit of the breeze. Set up camp
under a remote waterfall, and had a wet and muddy game of ultimate frisbee
on the tidal estuary. Of course, the rising tide made getting back to camp
a bit of a wet adventure. Sandflies were our constant companions on land,
which made the bush toilet (a.k.a. a shovel and squat) interesting!

Had a good sleep, then up early. Conditions had worsened overnight and the
wind had picked up. Adrian and all the rest were keen for a Fiordland
"spanking" and so we launched. Wind was gusty and almost blew our paddles
away, but we still managed another 15 kms downwind, and were accompanied by
a pod of dolphins with babies. Wind changed and we landed for lunch on a
recent landslide. Fiordland is so steep that there are very few places
where it is possible to land a kayak. Whilst lunching, we watched 1km high
tornadoes of water on the fiord. A little intimidating to say the least.
Nonetheless, launched and started back into the wind toward camp. Were
doing relatively well, until the wind began gusting again. Mark and I were
headed straight into the wind, when a gust caught us from the side, and over
we went. A capsize! Luckily the water was still about 15degrees. We
managed to get back in and everyone paddled back downwind since it was too
strong to paddle into it and make any headway. A passing cruise ship
measured the windspeed at 60 knots. Had dinner on the beach, and prepared
to spend an emergency night out. Forecast was for heavy rain however, and
as we were in between two rivers there was a good chance the site would be
flooded. Waited a couple hours, then set off again. Managed to make it
home at 9pm, exhausted but safe. Everyone enjoyed the wine we had brought
and spirits were high.

4:30am, I was awakened by a "boom" Thunder of course. Then followed the
most intense storm I have ever experienced. Lightning and thunder, and
torrential rain kept us up digging trenches and trying to prevent our camp
from being washed away. the sound of the waterfall grew deafening.

Morning dawned, revealing water everywhere. The mountain opposite our camp
across the fiord was transformed with hundreds of waterfalls. 'Our'
waterfall looked like twenty firehoses turned full on. Lightning continued
to flash as wel packed up camp and loaded the kayaks. Everyone was pretty
grim, but no one wanted to spend another wet night out. In addition, the
lightning had taken out the radio tower, so we had no communication with
anyone or for updated weather. Off we went, lightning and all. It
gradually settled into heavy rain, and we enjoyed paddling under all the
thousands of waterfalls that had magically appeared overnight. Coming in to
deep cove, the water was glassy and calm, and the stillness was amazing. 25
kms that day made for a total distance of some 80kms.

Though it was challenging and at times terrifying, the trip reinforced for
me what I consider to be important. Gave me a lot of perspective and great
respect for the Natural world, in a way that I hadn't before experienced. I
also slept very well back at the hostel that night!

A day to rest, then yesterday I went and paddled Milford Sound. Though
visually more spectacular, I appreciated the solitude and remoteness of
Doubtful more. We did however get ourselves into the middle of a pod of 40
or more playful dolphins, and I even ventured a swim (brrr! Very cold!).
It was amazing to watch them evoke joy in all that watched them. No one was
untouched. What a memorable experience. We even had blue sky (unheard of).
Fiordland weather strikes again.

Today is a day of rest, then tomorrow I'm off on another (hopefully drier)
Fiordland adventure: the Kepler Track. Four days of hiking. Really looking
forward to it.

I hope you are all well and that spring will soon find you. Hope to hear
from you soon!

- Kristi