Hi all,
This morning I was up at 5:00am and off to swim with the dolphins! What an amazing experience. Kaikoura is home to pods of up to 13000 dusky dolphins! I was in a pod of close to 500 on the open ocean, snorkelling!
They are such a lesson in joy and love. Really good examples of being happy and living in the moment. They would come up and if I maintained eye contact, they'd circle, and liked it if I tried to keep up (fat chance... they're amazingly fast!). Also liked it if I dove down (a feat with a 5mm wetsuit on... too buoyant!) and came to investigate.
At first I had mixed feelings about partaking in an eco-tourism operation that could have potential harm to the animals, but they seemed to really enjoy it! Quite entertained by all the swimmers I think. New Zealand has a few things to work on, but generally I've been really impressed with the level of care taken with regards to conservation and education in eco-tourism.
An experience I won't forget, that's for sure! I hope I have a chance to swim with them again, in a non-organized tour setting. Dolphins are found all around New Zealand, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
Tomorrow it's off to Nelson to look for wwoofing work, then in mid-march I'm going to spend at least a week living simply and off the power grid at Anahata yoga retreat centre in Golden Bay... can't wait!
Hope you are all well and happy! Blessings from the dolphins to you!
Love,
Kristi
Thursday, February 24, 2005
Wednesday, February 23, 2005
Mountain Glory
Hi Everyone!
It's been a whirlwind last few days, but I've seen and done a lot!
Left Te Anau after visiting the glow-worm caves (very interesting creatures.... lure insects with light from their digestive systems..... made the inside of the cave look like a starry sky). An uneventful journey to Dunedin, Scottish student city in the Southeast. An interesting place. The city itself is driven by the university, with 30,000 students and the largest employer. Being the week before classes started, there were lots of students about. As a result of the student culture it is quite artsy and interesting. The architecture reminded me a lot of Europe as well.... older buildings (my hostel was apparently an old hospital and has a resident ghost, just to keep things interesting!). Nearby is the Otago Peninsula, a mecca for wildlife lovers. I managed to see the rare yellow-eyed penguins waddling ashore at dusk to feed their chicks, many seabirds, New Zealand fur seals (a nursery.... the pups were just learning to swim!), Sea Lions from a few feet away, and the Royal Albatross with a 3 meter wingspan.... magnificent birds. Also had to visit the Cadbury chocolate factory and see their chocolate waterfall.... yum!
The next day it was on to Mount Cook, and I lucked out as it was a beautiful sunny day and Lake Pukaki was almost the same colour of the sky (from the glacial rock dust). Mount Cook (or Aoraki in Maori legend) is the highest peak in Australasia and is spectacular. the following day (my Birthday) I hiked up to the Mueller Hut with Maria, a British acquaintance. What an amazing hike! Very steep, but rewarded at the top by stunning views of glaciers and sheer faces all around, with icefall booming across the valleys. One could see right up the Hooker Valley and Tasman glacier to Mt. Cook, and the sun and blue sky were incredible. I'll upload photos of it as soon as I'm able.... once again the difficulty with large file sizes and paying for connections.
Then today it was a long bus ride past Lake Tekapo and out of the high country to Christchurch, where I began! It feels strange to be back here, as I've changed a lot since being here the first time. I'm only here for a day though, and then off to Kaikoura tomorrow to visit the whales and dolphins. Then on to Nelson where I have some wwoofing possibilities. I'm also corresponding with the yoga retreat centre to spend some time there as well, so we'll see how that pans out.
I've been doing some thinking about sustainability since I've arrived here, and gained some interesting perspectives. When I first arrived, I had the idea that it would be great to just dissappear into the bush and live sustainably, and at peace with the land. I've since realized though, that while wonderful, if things turn bad, one is really and truly alone (i.e. medical emergencies etc.). I've also realized that I'd get restless and need to have a greater impact and work with people.
Part of the reason so much of New Zealand is amazing and pristine is that the population pressures are nowhere near what they are in urban areas, and so a lot of the problems aren't as apparent. It's great to have places like New Zealand to escape to, and as a model of how things could be, but I'm realizing that cities are where the real problems need to be addressed. In some ways, it seems that it may be only a matter of time until the problems we see in North America find their way here. I hope that things will proceed differently and that New Zealand can be an example of how things can be. I'm going to write to the New Zealand government and applaud them for their support of conservation initatives, and urge them to continue in this vein.
Seeing all of this has prompted me to contemplate emmigrating, but I'm realizing more and more that BC is my home and where I need to be making a difference. I do really like visitng places like this though!
All in all, I'm really enjoying traveling independently, and meeting new and interesting people every day. It's all I hoped it would be, and I'm loving every minute of it. Thanks to all who have sent their thoughs and encouragement... it's much appreciated!
Thinking of you all!
Cheers,
Kristi
It's been a whirlwind last few days, but I've seen and done a lot!
Left Te Anau after visiting the glow-worm caves (very interesting creatures.... lure insects with light from their digestive systems..... made the inside of the cave look like a starry sky). An uneventful journey to Dunedin, Scottish student city in the Southeast. An interesting place. The city itself is driven by the university, with 30,000 students and the largest employer. Being the week before classes started, there were lots of students about. As a result of the student culture it is quite artsy and interesting. The architecture reminded me a lot of Europe as well.... older buildings (my hostel was apparently an old hospital and has a resident ghost, just to keep things interesting!). Nearby is the Otago Peninsula, a mecca for wildlife lovers. I managed to see the rare yellow-eyed penguins waddling ashore at dusk to feed their chicks, many seabirds, New Zealand fur seals (a nursery.... the pups were just learning to swim!), Sea Lions from a few feet away, and the Royal Albatross with a 3 meter wingspan.... magnificent birds. Also had to visit the Cadbury chocolate factory and see their chocolate waterfall.... yum!
The next day it was on to Mount Cook, and I lucked out as it was a beautiful sunny day and Lake Pukaki was almost the same colour of the sky (from the glacial rock dust). Mount Cook (or Aoraki in Maori legend) is the highest peak in Australasia and is spectacular. the following day (my Birthday) I hiked up to the Mueller Hut with Maria, a British acquaintance. What an amazing hike! Very steep, but rewarded at the top by stunning views of glaciers and sheer faces all around, with icefall booming across the valleys. One could see right up the Hooker Valley and Tasman glacier to Mt. Cook, and the sun and blue sky were incredible. I'll upload photos of it as soon as I'm able.... once again the difficulty with large file sizes and paying for connections.
Then today it was a long bus ride past Lake Tekapo and out of the high country to Christchurch, where I began! It feels strange to be back here, as I've changed a lot since being here the first time. I'm only here for a day though, and then off to Kaikoura tomorrow to visit the whales and dolphins. Then on to Nelson where I have some wwoofing possibilities. I'm also corresponding with the yoga retreat centre to spend some time there as well, so we'll see how that pans out.
I've been doing some thinking about sustainability since I've arrived here, and gained some interesting perspectives. When I first arrived, I had the idea that it would be great to just dissappear into the bush and live sustainably, and at peace with the land. I've since realized though, that while wonderful, if things turn bad, one is really and truly alone (i.e. medical emergencies etc.). I've also realized that I'd get restless and need to have a greater impact and work with people.
Part of the reason so much of New Zealand is amazing and pristine is that the population pressures are nowhere near what they are in urban areas, and so a lot of the problems aren't as apparent. It's great to have places like New Zealand to escape to, and as a model of how things could be, but I'm realizing that cities are where the real problems need to be addressed. In some ways, it seems that it may be only a matter of time until the problems we see in North America find their way here. I hope that things will proceed differently and that New Zealand can be an example of how things can be. I'm going to write to the New Zealand government and applaud them for their support of conservation initatives, and urge them to continue in this vein.
Seeing all of this has prompted me to contemplate emmigrating, but I'm realizing more and more that BC is my home and where I need to be making a difference. I do really like visitng places like this though!
All in all, I'm really enjoying traveling independently, and meeting new and interesting people every day. It's all I hoped it would be, and I'm loving every minute of it. Thanks to all who have sent their thoughs and encouragement... it's much appreciated!
Thinking of you all!
Cheers,
Kristi
Thursday, February 17, 2005
Kepler Track
Hi everyone!
Well, I survived the Kepler track!
The first day was a 5 hour hike up through mountain beech forest to the bushline (treeline), to the Luxmore hut. These Department of Conservation huts sleep 60 and have running water, flush toilets and gas cookers! Luxury! The Kea were again present getting into mischief and attempting to take apart boots, cameras, and whatever else they could find. What clowns!
The next day dawned sunny, lookng down on a sea of clouds. I practiced yoga at sunrise on the helicopter landing pad. Then a gruelling but beautiful 7 hour day across the alpine section of the track, including the summit of Mt. Luxmore. We lucked out with the weather as the day before it had been fogged-in and impassible. Apart from strong winds it was great. My knees and blisters were not happy to carry my heavy pack (I must learn to pack lighter!), but an amazing day nonetheless.
Last full day was through beech forest again.... long but flat. A nice swim in the lake that evening and a quiet night in the hut as many people chose to walk all the way out. The next morning I rose early and walked for a couple hours and caught a shuttle bus back into town, eagerly anticipating a hot shower and real (read: non-dehydrated) food. Spent all of yesterday afternoon crashed on a couch in the hostel watching "The Fellowship of the Ring" and pointing excitedly at locations I recognized. Pathetic, but fun at the same time, and I'd promised myself during an especially tough section of track that I would do this upon returning, so I simply had to.
The Great Walks system here in New Zealand is interesting. Though you travel through amazing wilderness, each day there are 60 or more people on each section of the track, and also at the huts. It was very different to any overnight trips I had done at home for that reason. I felt like I couldn't get the space I needed to be alone (odd, since there was so much space). For that same reason, though I hiked alone I knew everyone on the track after the first day, so it wasn't really like hiking alone. In fact, to get a decent moment's solitude to pee was difficult. People would see my pack by the track and start looking for me, and I'd have to yell out "it's okay, I'm just peeing!" Every 30 seconds or so. This highlights a lot of the controversy within the Department of Conservation about limiting the numbers of people. Necessary, but
the economic pull to bring in the dollars is also strong. Having said that, DOC does a great job, with many successful conservation projects under their belt.
All interesting experiences, to be sure! I'm bidding Fiordland a fond farewell tomorrow (after visiting the glow-worm caves this afternoon) and heading to Dunedin. Should be able to get some photos up while I'm there. Hope you are all well and happy wherever you may be!
All the best,
Kristi
Tuesday, February 15, 2005
Fiordland Wilderness (Mis) Adventures
Hi All,
Since I last wrote, I've traveled from Queenstown to Te Anau, in Fiordland
National Park and part of the Te Wahipounamou (Place of Greenstone) UNESCO
World Heritage Site. I promptly set off on an incredible, humbling
experience.
I spent three days in a sea kayak on the remote Doubtful Sound. To get
there, we had to drive for half an hour, take an hour long speedboat ride
across Lake Manipouri, then drive for another 40 minutes over the Wilmot
Pass to Deep Cove on Doubtful Sound. Launched and loaded the double kayaks.
I paddled with Mark, a British chap, while we had a team of Danish goofy
Physicists, a couple of young American girls, a Japanese couple, and our
Kiwi guide, Adrian. Paddling the first day under calm conditions we did 25
kms and even got the sails up to catch a bit of the breeze. Set up camp
under a remote waterfall, and had a wet and muddy game of ultimate frisbee
on the tidal estuary. Of course, the rising tide made getting back to camp
a bit of a wet adventure. Sandflies were our constant companions on land,
which made the bush toilet (a.k.a. a shovel and squat) interesting!
Had a good sleep, then up early. Conditions had worsened overnight and the
wind had picked up. Adrian and all the rest were keen for a Fiordland
"spanking" and so we launched. Wind was gusty and almost blew our paddles
away, but we still managed another 15 kms downwind, and were accompanied by
a pod of dolphins with babies. Wind changed and we landed for lunch on a
recent landslide. Fiordland is so steep that there are very few places
where it is possible to land a kayak. Whilst lunching, we watched 1km high
tornadoes of water on the fiord. A little intimidating to say the least.
Nonetheless, launched and started back into the wind toward camp. Were
doing relatively well, until the wind began gusting again. Mark and I were
headed straight into the wind, when a gust caught us from the side, and over
we went. A capsize! Luckily the water was still about 15degrees. We
managed to get back in and everyone paddled back downwind since it was too
strong to paddle into it and make any headway. A passing cruise ship
measured the windspeed at 60 knots. Had dinner on the beach, and prepared
to spend an emergency night out. Forecast was for heavy rain however, and
as we were in between two rivers there was a good chance the site would be
flooded. Waited a couple hours, then set off again. Managed to make it
home at 9pm, exhausted but safe. Everyone enjoyed the wine we had brought
and spirits were high.
4:30am, I was awakened by a "boom" Thunder of course. Then followed the
most intense storm I have ever experienced. Lightning and thunder, and
torrential rain kept us up digging trenches and trying to prevent our camp
from being washed away. the sound of the waterfall grew deafening.
Morning dawned, revealing water everywhere. The mountain opposite our camp
across the fiord was transformed with hundreds of waterfalls. 'Our'
waterfall looked like twenty firehoses turned full on. Lightning continued
to flash as wel packed up camp and loaded the kayaks. Everyone was pretty
grim, but no one wanted to spend another wet night out. In addition, the
lightning had taken out the radio tower, so we had no communication with
anyone or for updated weather. Off we went, lightning and all. It
gradually settled into heavy rain, and we enjoyed paddling under all the
thousands of waterfalls that had magically appeared overnight. Coming in to
deep cove, the water was glassy and calm, and the stillness was amazing. 25
kms that day made for a total distance of some 80kms.
Though it was challenging and at times terrifying, the trip reinforced for
me what I consider to be important. Gave me a lot of perspective and great
respect for the Natural world, in a way that I hadn't before experienced. I
also slept very well back at the hostel that night!
A day to rest, then yesterday I went and paddled Milford Sound. Though
visually more spectacular, I appreciated the solitude and remoteness of
Doubtful more. We did however get ourselves into the middle of a pod of 40
or more playful dolphins, and I even ventured a swim (brrr! Very cold!).
It was amazing to watch them evoke joy in all that watched them. No one was
untouched. What a memorable experience. We even had blue sky (unheard of).
Fiordland weather strikes again.
Today is a day of rest, then tomorrow I'm off on another (hopefully drier)
Fiordland adventure: the Kepler Track. Four days of hiking. Really looking
forward to it.
I hope you are all well and that spring will soon find you. Hope to hear
from you soon!
- Kristi
Since I last wrote, I've traveled from Queenstown to Te Anau, in Fiordland
National Park and part of the Te Wahipounamou (Place of Greenstone) UNESCO
World Heritage Site. I promptly set off on an incredible, humbling
experience.
I spent three days in a sea kayak on the remote Doubtful Sound. To get
there, we had to drive for half an hour, take an hour long speedboat ride
across Lake Manipouri, then drive for another 40 minutes over the Wilmot
Pass to Deep Cove on Doubtful Sound. Launched and loaded the double kayaks.
I paddled with Mark, a British chap, while we had a team of Danish goofy
Physicists, a couple of young American girls, a Japanese couple, and our
Kiwi guide, Adrian. Paddling the first day under calm conditions we did 25
kms and even got the sails up to catch a bit of the breeze. Set up camp
under a remote waterfall, and had a wet and muddy game of ultimate frisbee
on the tidal estuary. Of course, the rising tide made getting back to camp
a bit of a wet adventure. Sandflies were our constant companions on land,
which made the bush toilet (a.k.a. a shovel and squat) interesting!
Had a good sleep, then up early. Conditions had worsened overnight and the
wind had picked up. Adrian and all the rest were keen for a Fiordland
"spanking" and so we launched. Wind was gusty and almost blew our paddles
away, but we still managed another 15 kms downwind, and were accompanied by
a pod of dolphins with babies. Wind changed and we landed for lunch on a
recent landslide. Fiordland is so steep that there are very few places
where it is possible to land a kayak. Whilst lunching, we watched 1km high
tornadoes of water on the fiord. A little intimidating to say the least.
Nonetheless, launched and started back into the wind toward camp. Were
doing relatively well, until the wind began gusting again. Mark and I were
headed straight into the wind, when a gust caught us from the side, and over
we went. A capsize! Luckily the water was still about 15degrees. We
managed to get back in and everyone paddled back downwind since it was too
strong to paddle into it and make any headway. A passing cruise ship
measured the windspeed at 60 knots. Had dinner on the beach, and prepared
to spend an emergency night out. Forecast was for heavy rain however, and
as we were in between two rivers there was a good chance the site would be
flooded. Waited a couple hours, then set off again. Managed to make it
home at 9pm, exhausted but safe. Everyone enjoyed the wine we had brought
and spirits were high.
4:30am, I was awakened by a "boom" Thunder of course. Then followed the
most intense storm I have ever experienced. Lightning and thunder, and
torrential rain kept us up digging trenches and trying to prevent our camp
from being washed away. the sound of the waterfall grew deafening.
Morning dawned, revealing water everywhere. The mountain opposite our camp
across the fiord was transformed with hundreds of waterfalls. 'Our'
waterfall looked like twenty firehoses turned full on. Lightning continued
to flash as wel packed up camp and loaded the kayaks. Everyone was pretty
grim, but no one wanted to spend another wet night out. In addition, the
lightning had taken out the radio tower, so we had no communication with
anyone or for updated weather. Off we went, lightning and all. It
gradually settled into heavy rain, and we enjoyed paddling under all the
thousands of waterfalls that had magically appeared overnight. Coming in to
deep cove, the water was glassy and calm, and the stillness was amazing. 25
kms that day made for a total distance of some 80kms.
Though it was challenging and at times terrifying, the trip reinforced for
me what I consider to be important. Gave me a lot of perspective and great
respect for the Natural world, in a way that I hadn't before experienced. I
also slept very well back at the hostel that night!
A day to rest, then yesterday I went and paddled Milford Sound. Though
visually more spectacular, I appreciated the solitude and remoteness of
Doubtful more. We did however get ourselves into the middle of a pod of 40
or more playful dolphins, and I even ventured a swim (brrr! Very cold!).
It was amazing to watch them evoke joy in all that watched them. No one was
untouched. What a memorable experience. We even had blue sky (unheard of).
Fiordland weather strikes again.
Today is a day of rest, then tomorrow I'm off on another (hopefully drier)
Fiordland adventure: the Kepler Track. Four days of hiking. Really looking
forward to it.
I hope you are all well and that spring will soon find you. Hope to hear
from you soon!
- Kristi
Friday, February 04, 2005
Queenstown
Hello from Queenstown!
Some other observations of New Zealand:
- New Zealanders really like rugby. A lot. Don't ask a question about rugby if you don't want a half-hour answer.
- Feet: No aversions to getting feet wet or dirty. All hiking river fords have signs telling you to keep your boots on when crossing rivers. Not sure if this is to protect your feet from the river or the river from your feet. Whereas, in most cities, people frequently wander around barefoot. Hmmm. Pavement is hot, I would tend to think.
- Travel: Most kiwis I speak to have travelled internationally. They even have a term for it, the "O.E." or Overseas Experience. Most travel for at least a year before or after higher education, or both. Much more so than a lot of Canadians, in my experience.
On to Franz Josef glacier. Amazing! The glaciers on the west coast of NZ are unique, in that they come to 300m abover sea level, and pass through coastal temperate rainforest, making them very accessible. I did an 8hr glacier walk, which turned out to be 9hrs long because with all the melt, a new route had to be found, resulting in us getting lost and stuck in some icefall! Made for some interesting manouvers and photos though!
Then on to Wanaka, a lakeside tourist town that reminded me a lot of Penticton. The lake was very nice for swimming, and the 35 degree heat made it most welcome. Did a nice walk up one of the local mountains there.
Then it was in to Queenstown yesterday. I was surprised by it..... much smaller that I would have expected. Reminds me a lot of Whistler, a purpose-built tourist town that is very popular with the party crowd. Kiwis it turns out, are very creative when it comes to terrifying themselves. Five bungy jumps (including the first in the world), four skydives, jetboating, whitewater rafting, a bungy cannon (that shoots you into the air like a rubber band and then bounces around), a canyon swing (swinging way across a canyon on a bungy), river sledging (where you put on a helmet and get a modified boogie board, and then jump into class V rapids and hope you get down in one piece!), canyoning (same, but without the board!), parabungy (where you go paragliding, then bungy jump from the parasail?!) etc. etc. Whew! I think I'll stick to the more
sedate hiking and admiring the scenery. Queenstown is bordered by the Remarkables mountains which featured prominently in the Lord of the Rings (along with about 10 other locations within an hour of Queenstown), and which live up to their name as they change colour at dawn/dusk and are reflected in lake Wakatipu.
sedate hiking and admiring the scenery. Queenstown is bordered by the Remarkables mountains which featured prominently in the Lord of the Rings (along with about 10 other locations within an hour of Queenstown), and which live up to their name as they change colour at dawn/dusk and are reflected in lake Wakatipu.
I've got big plans for the coming weeks. On the 7th I'm heading to Te Anau, then doing a three day wilderness kayak trip into Doubtful Sound. After, a day to recuperate, then a full day kayaking on Milford Sound, followed by another day of rest, then four days on the Kepler Track, on of the "Great Walks" in New Zealand. Will be challenging for sure, but all great experiences!
After, no concrete plans, but probably working North to Nelson and looking for WWOOFing work.
Hope you are all well! Best wishes and hugs,
Kristi
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